House & Home: Can I plant a tree in the winter?

While I've been researching shallow root trees for the spring, I had not intended to purchase one - in January. Though it's been unseasonally mild, I am sure the snow and freezing temperatures are on the horizon.

Browsing through on Friday I was talking to Clarence and Rick, and they schooled me up on why winter is the best time to plant a tree.

They said some of the better trees are available in the winter. After planted, your new tree will use the winter dormant season to establish new roots. When spring arrives, your tree will be on its way to putting out some good blooms. Most people, like me, were planning to plant their dogwoods, japanese maples or cherries in th spring, while they are already in bloom, but the blooms will simply not last as long.

Ask your nursery professional to recommend a tree that is native or adapted to this area and tell them the spot you have in mind for it.

Choosing a site

Survey your site and decide the best location for your tree. Choose the variety based on mature size compared to the space you have available. Most planting mistakes are made by placing a tree that will become very large in the wrong place; under a power line or too close to the house, driveway, or walkway. Don’t place the tree near water, gas, cable TV, telephone or sewer lines. 

Now dig a test hole. Be sure your location is not one large limestone boulder with a thin layer of soil over it. If you hit a large rock, move over a bit and try again. When you are sure you can dig an adequate hole, then purchase the tree. When you know the size of the hole you can dig, your original plan for a large balled and burlaped tree may change to a five gallon size. The smaller size is easier to plant, less expensive, and may grow more rapidly than the larger tree.

Planting the Tree

Here's what the pro's had to say. Dig your hole three to five times as wide as the container or root ball. The hole should be no deeper than the container. If you disturb the native soil below the root ball, the tree may settle and sink too low. The sides of the hole should not be smooth. Dig an ugly, ragged hole or even a square hole. Use a pick or shovel to break up the vertical soil surface. This gives the roots a chance to grow into the native soil. Carefully remove the tree from its container and place it in the hole. If the roots have begun to circle inside the container, straighten them out from the root ball as you refill the hole. Most times a newly planted tree will stand on its own. If necessary, drive a sturdy stake at the edge of the root ball. Use an old nylon stocking to loop a loose figure eight around the tree and the stake. Fill the hole with the removed soil, compost, or bagged soil. As you fill, compress the soil with your foot several times to prevent air pockets. Use the extra soil to build a dam around the edge of the hole. Water thoroughly and deeply. A liquid root stimulator may be used, but is usually not necessary. Cover the area inside the dam with 3-4 inches of organic mulch. In the absence of rain, a good soaking every two weeks is sufficient during the winter.